Steelhead Fishing Guide: Tackle and Tactics for Spring River Runs

There’s something almost magical about standing waist-deep in a frigid spring river, feeling the current push against your legs while you watch your float drift through a promising run. I’ve been chasing steelhead for over two decades now, and the spring runs still get my heart racing like nothing else.

Last April, I was fishing a small tributary of the Pere Marquette with my brother James – you know, the one who’s always got some crazy story about the fish he almost caught – when we hit one of those rare perfect days you dream about but hardly ever get. We landed 14 steelhead between us before noon. No exaggeration. I actually stopped counting after 9 because I was running out of fingers and my little notepad was soaked from releasing fish. The water was that perfect emerald green, about 42°F with a slight stain from rain two days before. We were using fresh-cured spawn bags the size of nickels that I’d tied the night before while watching the Tigers game (they lost, naturally).

But I’ve gotta be honest with you – for every day like that, I’ve had a dozen where I’ve been skunked, frozen half to death, and questioned my sanity. Like that time in March 2019 when I drove 3 hours to the Little Manistee, got there at 5 AM, and realized I’d forgotten my wading boots. Fished in tennis shoes. In 33-degree water. Yeah, couldn’t feel my feet for two days after that one, and Lisa (my wife) still brings it up whenever I’m packing for a trip.

That’s steelhead fishing for you – the highs are stratospheric, but man, you earn every single chrome fish you bring to net. Some days you’re the hero, most days you’re the zero.

After decades of these ups and downs, I figured I’d share some of what I’ve learned. Not that I’ve got it all figured out – I definitely don’t. But let’s break down what might help you have more of those memorable days and fewer of the “why do I do this to myself?” outings.

Understanding Spring Steelhead Behavior (Sort Of)

Look, I don’t have a Ph.D. in fishology or whatever you’d call it. What I do have is 30 years of trial and error, mostly error if I’m being honest. Spring steelhead fishing is fundamentally different from fall and winter approaches. These fish have one thing on their mind during spring: making little steelhead. They’re not actively feeding like they were in fall, but they will strike out of aggression or instinct or maybe just to shut you up – who knows what goes on in a fish’s brain.

When I first started targeting spring steelies in the early 2000s, I made the classic rookie mistake of fishing the same deep, slow pools that worked in winter. I spent three consecutive weekends in March without a single hook-up. My buddy Dave (who’s been guiding the northern Michigan rivers since before I got my driver’s license) finally took pity on me.

We met at the Little Manistee access point off Johnson Road – you know, the one with that ancient pit toilet that I swear hasn’t been pumped since the Clinton administration. While sharing a thermos of terrible coffee and a cinnamon roll that could have doubled as a hockey puck, he set me straight.

“Adam, you dum-dum,” he said, through a mouthful of rock-hard pastry, “springtime fish aren’t looking for rest areas. They’re looking for gravel and moving up whenever conditions allow. You’re fishing yesterday’s fish.”

He was absolutely right, though I wasn’t about to admit it then. Once I stopped being stubborn and started focusing on:

• Tail-outs above gravel beds
• Seams along faster water (not the dead-slow stuff)
• Shallow riffles during low light conditions
• Transition zones between deeper pools and spawning gravel

My success rate tripled almost overnight. No exaggeration. I went from one fish every other trip to consistent hook-ups. Not saying I became a steelhead whisperer or anything – I still get skunked plenty – but at least now I understand WHY I’m getting skunked.

The water temperature is also super critical during spring. Steelhead become way more active when temperatures climb above 40°F, but start losing interest in anything except spawning once it tops 50°F. I’ve found the sweet spot to be between 42-48°F. That’s when fish are moving and aggressive without being totally focused on the spawn dance.

Oh, and here’s something they won’t tell you in the fancy fishing magazines: steelhead can be dumb. Like, seriously dumb sometimes. Last spring I watched a guy with his reel on upside down catch three fish while I got nothing using textbook presentations. Still bothers me.

Spring Run Timing Across Michigan Rivers (A Moving Target)

The timing of spring steelhead runs varies dramatically depending on which watershed you’re fishing. And just when you think you’ve got it figured out, Mother Nature throws a curveball and everything shifts by two weeks. But after years of obsessively logging water temps, flow rates, and success (mostly in little waterproof notebooks I keep in my fishing vest), here’s roughly what I’ve found:

• Southern Michigan Rivers (St. Joseph, Kalamazoo, Grand): Runs typically start in early March, sometimes even late February if we get a warm spell. They usually peak mid to late March. My journal entry from March 18, 2021: “Grand River at Fitzgerald Park – water 44°F, slightly stained, landed 5 dime-bright hens in the big bend pool. All on peach beads. Should have brought more hand warmers.”
• Central Michigan Rivers (Muskegon, Pere Marquette, Manistee): Runs start mid-March and peak early April, though I’ve hit the jackpot as early as March 8th and as late as April 22nd. The PM can be especially weird – I’ve seen spawning fish in one section and fresh chromers still coming in just a mile downstream.
• Northern Michigan Rivers (Betsie, Platte, Boardman): Runs start late March and can peak as late as late April. I was fishing the Boardman near Traverse City on April 15th last year when we hit the peak of the run – so many fish you could practically walk across their backs. OK that’s an exaggeration, but not by much. Two weeks earlier? My log says: “Boardman – 4 hours, zero fish, water still too cold (38°F) and clear as gin. Should have stayed home and fixed the garage door like Lisa wanted.”

Here’s the thing about run timing – it’s all about accumulated temperature units. Or as my grandpa used to say, “Fish don’t read calendars, they feel the water.” Weather patterns can shift things dramatically. A warm rain can trigger a major push of fish, while a cold snap can stall everything for days.

I always check the USGS water data before planning a trip. Those gauges are like having a spy on the river. They tell you water level, flow, and sometimes temperature. If you see a bump in flow and temp – get there ASAP!

Case in point: April 2, 2022. I was planning to fish the Au Sable, but noticed the Pere Marquette had bumped up 150 cfs and 3 degrees overnight after a rain. Changed plans, drove the extra hour, and hit the motherload – 11 fish day, including a 14-pound buck that straightened my net. Sometimes being obsessive about data pays off.

Essential Spring Steelhead Tackle (Or “How I Blew My Kids’ College Fund”)

I’ve spent way too much money on steelhead gear over the years. Some of it was worth every penny, while other purchases collect dust in my garage, silently mocking me every time I walk past. Let me save you some cash and marital disputes (Lisa STILL brings up the $300 G. Loomis rod I broke on the first trip).

Rods and Reels (The Never-Ending Upgrade Cycle)

For spring steelhead, medium to medium-heavy rods in the 9-10.5 foot range are ideal. I personally use three different setups depending on the technique, and yes, I realize having three dedicated steelhead setups is excessive. My wife certainly thinks so.

1. Float Fishing: 10’6″ medium-action rod paired with a 2500-size reel spooled with 10lb monofilament mainline. This longer rod gives better drift control and float management. I use an older Fenwick HMG that isn’t even produced anymore – bought it used for $75 from a guy in the Baldwin Bait & Tackle parking lot in 2014. Still my favorite rod despite being scratched all to hell.
2. Drift Fishing: 9′ medium-heavy rod with a 2500-size reel spooled with 12lb mono. This setup works better for bottom-bouncing techniques. The current one is a St. Croix Premier that I got on sale after Christmas – good rod, but honestly not $80 better than the Bass Pro Graphite Series it replaced.
3. Casting Hardware: 8’6″ medium-action rod with a 2500-size reel and 8lb mono. This shorter rod provides better accuracy when casting spoons or spinners. This is actually my salmon rod too – a Shimano Clarus I’ve had forever. The cork handle is disintegrating and there’s electrical tape on one guide, but dang if it doesn’t still cast like a dream.

Look, you don’t need to spend $500 on a rod. My old Shimano Clarus has landed hundreds of fish over 15 years despite looking like it survived a war. It came from the clearance rack at Cabela’s for $59.99. That said, I eventually upgraded to a St. Croix Avid because my fishing buddy Tom wouldn’t shut up about his, and OK fine, I immediately noticed better sensitivity and hook-setting capability. But was it worth the extra $240? Probably not for most folks.

For reels, smooth drag systems matter way more than fancy features. My first quality steelhead reel was a Pflueger President that cost about $70, and honestly, it performed nearly as well as the $200 Shimano Stradic I use now. The Stradic is smoother for sure, but not “$130 smoother,” if you know what I mean. I just got sucked into the gear vortex. Don’t be like me.

One thing that IS worth spending money on: good line. The cheap stuff will break your heart when that fish of a lifetime straightens out your bargain-bin hooks, shreds your 99-cent swivels, and snaps your dollar-store line. Ask me how I know.

Terminal Tackle Must-Haves (The Stuff That Actually Catches Fish)

If I had to empty my steelhead bag and keep only the essentials for spring fishing, here’s what would make the cut:

• Floats: A selection of Thill steelhead floats (1-3 gram for clear water, 4-8 gram for higher flows). I like the Center Sliders best, but the regular Steelhead Floats work fine too. True story: I once lost my entire float box at Tippy Dam and had to use a wine cork with a toothpick stuck in it. Actually caught two fish before I could get to a store. Fish don’t care about brands.
• Weights: Split shot assortment (BB, 3/0, 7), mainly Water Gremlin brand because they’re less likely to damage your line when crimping. I arrange mine in those little plastic pill organizers that old people use. Works perfect, costs $1.99 at any pharmacy.
• Hooks: Size 6-10 octopus hooks for spawn, size 4-8 egg hooks for beads. I’m particular about hooks – started using Gamakatsu years ago and haven’t looked back. Though honestly, Owner hooks might be even better (don’t tell Gamakatsu I said that). I once found a bargain bin of Eagle Claw hooks at Meijer – 50 cents per pack. Bought them all. Every single one bent or broke on decent fish. Lesson learned.
• Leaders: Fluorocarbon in 6, 8, and 10lb test. Used to use mono for everything until that day on the Betsie in 2017 when the guy next to me was outfishing me 5-to-1 using fluoro. Swallowed my pride, borrowed some of his, and started catching fish immediately. Now I never use anything else for steelhead. I like Seaguar, but P-Line and Sunline are good too.
• Swivels: Size 10-12 barrel swivels (black, not brass – though I’m pretty sure that’s just superstition on my part). Spro makes good ones that don’t fail.
• Beads: 8-12mm in various shades of orange, peach, and chartreuse. The 10mm crystal cantaloupe color from Alaska Troutfitters is absolute money in slightly stained water, especially on the Pere Marquette. Expensive, but they last forever if you don’t lose them.
• Spawn Bags: Pre-tied or materials to tie fresh (spawn netting, thread). I prefer to tie my own the night before a trip while watching TV. My spawn bag tying station is an old TV tray that permanently smells like salmon eggs. Lisa makes me keep it in the garage.
• Yarn: Various colors, especially orange, pink, and chartreuse. The cheap stuff from craft stores works just as well as the expensive “fishing specific” yarn. I stole some from my daughter’s craft box once when I ran out. She still hasn’t noticed.
• Hardware: Small selection of spinners (size 3-4) and spoons (1/4-3/8 oz). I like Blue Fox spinners and Little Cleo spoons, but there are a bunch of good options.

I’ve found that Gamakatsu hooks stay sharp longer than cheaper alternatives – like, WAY longer. The points don’t roll over when you hit rocks. And spending a bit more on quality fluorocarbon leaders has definitely increased my hookup rate in clear water. My buddy Mike uses cheap Stren leader material and wonders why he misses so many strikes. I’ve told him a hundred times to upgrade, but he’s stubborn as a mule.

One thing many anglers overlook is having enough split shot options. Water levels can change rapidly in spring, and being able to adjust your weight precisely makes a huge difference in presentation. I carry at least 4 different sizes and usually end up using all of them in a day as conditions change.

Oh, and a good pair of nippers is worth its weight in gold. I use medical scissors I swiped from my wife’s nursing supplies. She knows. She’s not happy about it.

Spring Baits and Lures (The Great Debate That Never Ends)

I’ve tried every steelhead bait and lure under the sun, from glow-in-the-dark spawn sacs to hand-painted plugs that cost more than a steak dinner. I’ve been suckered by the latest miracle bait more times than I care to admit. Remember the rubber shrimp craze of 2015? Yeah, I bought dozens in every color. Caught exactly zero fish on them.

Here’s what consistently produces in spring conditions, at least for me:

• Fresh Spawn: Nothing beats fresh, properly cured salmon or steelhead eggs in spring. The emphasis is on “properly cured.” I’ve spent years perfecting my cure recipe, and I’m still tinkering with it. Currently using a mix of Pro-Cure Brine, borax, sugar, and a dash of kool-aid (seriously – the cherry flavor adds a red tint that seems to work on clear days). I’ve had my best success with bags tied the night before a trip, about the size of a nickel or smaller.

Some old-timers swear by fire-cured eggs, which stink to high heaven but boy do they work sometimes. My buddy Rick uses them exclusively. He’s not allowed to ride in my truck anymore because the smell never comes out of the upholstery.

• Beads: 10mm peach, orange, or champagne beads pegged 1-2 inches above your hook can be deadly, especially in clear water when fish get pressured. I was a spawn snob for years until a kid – couldn’t have been more than 16 – outfished our entire group using nothing but beads on the Pere Marquette. Humbling experience. Now I always have beads rigged and ready.
• Wax Worms: Often overlooked, but a couple of wax worms on a small hook under a float can save the day when nothing else works. They’re my secret weapon on heavily pressured rivers like the Betsie during peak season. Bonus: you can buy them at any bait shop, even when spawn is impossible to find.
• Small Yarnballs: When regulations restrict bait (like on some sections of the Pere Marquette), yarn in spawn-like colors can be surprisingly effective. I know one guide who uses nothing but yarn, claiming it’s more consistent than real spawn. He might be right, but I’m too set in my ways to fully convert.
• Spinners: Size 3-4 Mepps or Blue Fox spinners in silver/orange or copper/chartreuse produce when fish are aggressive. The Mepps Aglia in copper with an orange dot was my go-to for years until they discontinued that exact pattern. I’m still bitter about it.

I’ll never forget a trip to the Betsie River back in 2018. Nothing was working – not spawn, not beads, not wax worms. I was about ready to call it a day when I dug through my vest and found a simple pink/white yarn combination that I had tied months earlier and almost didn’t pack. Just tied it on as a last resort. Landed four nice males in an hour after being skunked all morning. Sometimes fishing makes no sense whatsoever.

My all-time most effective spring steelhead bait? Small spawn bags cured with Pro-Cure and a drop of anise oil, tied in pink netting. Don’t ask me why, but that combination has been money for me for over a decade, especially in tea-colored water. But the minute you think you’ve got steelhead figured out, they change the rules on you. That’s what keeps us coming back, I guess.

Oh, and one more thing – whatever bait you’re using, change it often. Fresh bait catches more fish, full stop. I see guys fishing the same sad, washed-out spawn bag for hours and wondering why they’re not getting bites. New bag every 15-20 minutes or after each fish – that’s my rule.

Spring Steelhead Fishing Techniques

Different techniques shine depending on water conditions and fish behavior. I’ve tried everything from centerpin fishing (too expensive and complicated for my taste) to plunking (too boring) to fly fishing (my casting still looks like I’m swatting at bees). The three approaches I rely on most for spring steelhead are:

Float Fishing (My Go-To Technique Almost Always)

Float fishing gives you the best drift control and keeps your presentation in the strike zone longer. When people ask me to teach them steelhead fishing, this is always where I start. It’s the most versatile approach for our Michigan rivers.

The basic setup is pretty simple, though you can geek out and make it complex if that’s your thing:

1. Attach a float to your mainline
2. Add a micro swivel
3. Tie on 2-4 feet of fluorocarbon leader
4. Place split shot between the float and swivel (this spacing is critical)
5. Tie on your hook and add bait

That’s it. No rocket science required. The key is balancing your float with just enough weight so that only the top 1/4 inch is visible above the water. Too much weight and you’ll drag bottom constantly, snagging up and spooking fish; too little and you won’t get down to where the fish are holding. It’s a constant adjustment game.

Getting a perfect drift is both an art and an obsession. I’ve spent entire days just working on my drift technique. My wife thinks I’m nuts. She might be right.

One technique that’s worked consistently for me is what my fishing buddy Tom calls the “swing and hold.” After a natural drift through a run, don’t immediately retrieve – instead, let your float swing downstream and hold in the current for 3-5 seconds. I’ve had countless steelhead hit during this pause when the bait rises slightly in the water column. Last spring on the Manistee, I caught five fish in one morning using this exact technique, all during the pause at the end of the drift.

The absolute worst mistake? Not mending your line properly. If your line’s dragging across the current, creating a bow that pulls your float unnaturally, you’re wasting your time. I tell new anglers to think of their rod tip as a paintbrush, painting an upstream arc with their line to counteract the current.

Drift Fishing Without a Float (The Old-School Approach)

When dealing with faster water or fishing deeper runs, sometimes ditching the float and bottom-bouncing works better. The old-timers on the Pere Marquette taught me this approach years ago, and in certain conditions, it outperforms everything else.

This approach uses:

1. A 3-way swivel setup
2. 12-18″ dropper with weight
3. 24-36″ leader with your bait

You want to feel your weight tick along the bottom occasionally as you drift. It should be a “tick-tick…tick-tick” rather than a constant dragging. This technique requires more attention but can be deadly effective when fish are holding deep or when heavy pressure has made them wary of float rigs.

I learned this approach from an old-timer named Earl on the Manistee River who consistently outfished everyone around him. Must have been in his 70s, wearing ancient waders patched with duct tape and using a rod that looked like it had been run over by a truck. But man, could he catch fish.

“You’ve got to stay in contact with the bottom, but not drag,” he explained while demonstrating the perfect amount of line to let out. “Feel for the difference between rocks and a take – it’s subtle.”

He was right. It took me months to develop the sensitivity to distinguish between a rock, a stick, and a fish mouthing the bait. Still miss strikes sometimes, but when you get it right, it’s incredibly effective, especially in those deeper slots where floats are hard to manage.

Hardware for Active Fish (The Chuck-and-Chance-It Method)

When steelhead are aggressive or I’m covering water to locate pods of fish, spinners and spoons can be remarkably effective. This is especially true after a rain when water levels rise and stain slightly.

The retrieve is critical – a steady pace that’s just fast enough to feel the blade or spoon working. Cast quartering upstream and work your lure through likely holding areas. The biggest mistake people make is retrieving too fast. These aren’t bass – a slow, tantalizing wobble or flash is what triggers strikes.

Last spring, I hit the Pere Marquette during a slight rise after an overnight rain. The water had a tea-colored stain, visibility maybe 18 inches, and fresh fish were on the move. A copper/orange #4 Mepps spinner accounted for five nice steelhead in a morning, all bright chromers that had just come in from Lake Michigan. I lost or broke off three more. One of those days when you can do no wrong.

The downside of hardware fishing? Way more snags, especially in rocky rivers. I budget for losing at least 3-4 lures per trip. But when it works, it REALLY works, and you can cover tons of water quickly.

Quick tip: swap out the treble hooks on your spinners for a single siwash hook. You’ll lose fewer fish and it’s much easier on them if you’re practicing catch and release. I started doing this years ago and have never looked back. Hookup rates are virtually identical and landing rates are actually better. on water conditions and fish behavior. The three approaches I rely on most for spring steelhead are:

Float Fishing (My Go-To Technique)

Float fishing gives you the best drift control and keeps your presentation in the strike zone longer. This is my default approach for spring steelhead unless conditions dictate otherwise.

The basic setup is:

1. Attach a float to your mainline
2. Add a micro swivel
3. Tie on 2-4 feet of fluorocarbon leader
4. Place split shot between the float and swivel
5. Tie on your hook and add bait

The key is balancing your float with just enough weight so that only the top 1/4 inch is visible. Too much weight and you’ll drag bottom constantly; too little and you won’t get down to the fish.

One technique that’s worked consistently is what my fishing buddy Tom calls the “swing and hold.” After a natural drift through a run, don’t immediately retrieve – instead, let your float swing downstream and hold in the current for 3-5 seconds. I’ve had countless steelhead hit during this pause when the bait rises slightly in the water column.

Drift Fishing Without a Float

When dealing with faster water or fishing deeper runs, sometimes ditching the float and bottom-bouncing works better. This approach uses:

1. A 3-way swivel setup
2. 12-18″ dropper with weight
3. 24-36″ leader with your bait

You want to feel your weight tick along the bottom occasionally as you drift. This technique requires more attention but can be deadly effective in the right conditions.

I learned this approach from an old-timer on the Manistee River who consistently outfished everyone around him. “You’ve got to stay in contact with the bottom, but not drag,” he explained while demonstrating the perfect amount of line to let out. “Feel for the difference between rocks and a take – it’s subtle.”

Hardware for Active Fish

When steelhead are aggressive or I’m covering water to locate pods of fish, spinners and spoons can be remarkably effective. This is especially true after a rain when water levels rise and stain slightly.

The retrieve is critical – a steady pace that’s just fast enough to feel the blade or spoon working. Cast quartering upstream and work your lure through likely holding areas.

Last spring, I hit the Pere Marquette during a slight rise after an overnight rain. The water had a tea-colored stain, and fresh fish were on the move. A copper/orange #4 Mepps spinner accounted for five nice steelhead in a morning, all bright chromers that had just come in from Lake Michigan.

Three Common Steelhead Fishing Mistakes (That I Still Make Sometimes)

After decades of chasing these fish and making plenty of blunders myself, I’ve noticed three mistakes that consistently plague steelhead anglers, from first-timers to grizzled veterans who should know better (like me on bad days):

1. Fishing Too Fast (The Impatience Epidemic)

The biggest mistake I see, especially with anglers who primarily fish for other species, is covering water too quickly. Bass fishing, trout fishing, most other types of angling reward mobility – but steelhead fishing, particularly in spring, rewards thoroughness and patience to a degree that seems insane to the uninitiated.

When I take new anglers to my favorite stretch on the Little Manistee, they’re often shocked at how methodically I work through a run. I’ll make dozens of drifts through the same seam, adjusting depth and position slightly each time. I might spend an hour in a spot that doesn’t look much different than the hundred yards above or below it.

“Shouldn’t we move? There’s nothing here,” they’ll often say after 15 minutes.

Then, inevitably, a float disappears, a rod doubles over, and a chrome missile launches into the air.

I was fishing with my brother-in-law Mike a few springs back on the Betsie. He kept leapfrogging ahead, fishing a spot for five minutes before declaring it “dead” and moving on. Meanwhile, I stayed in the same run for over an hour. He covered probably a mile of river to my fifty yards. Final score: Mike 0, Adam 4. He still doesn’t get it.

Steelhead often hold in precise lies, sometimes in groups. Finding exactly where they are in a run and getting your presentation perfect often matters more than fishing lots of different water. It’s counterintuitive, but those willing to slow down catch more fish.

2. Using the Wrong Size Offering (Usually Too Big)

Spring steelhead can be finicky about bait size. I’ve had days where downsizing from a dime-sized spawn bag to a pea-sized one turned zero action into consistent hookups. This is especially true in clear water conditions, which are common in spring.

I remember fishing alongside a guy on the Platte River who was using spawn bags that looked like golf balls – I’m barely exaggerating. Bright orange monstrosities you could see from space. He hadn’t had a bite all morning while I’d landed three nice fish on bags the size of my pinky fingernail.

When he finally swallowed his pride and asked what I was using, I shared some of my smaller bags with him. He hooked up within 10 minutes, and the light bulb went on. “I’ve been doing it wrong for years,” he admitted.

The same principle applies to beads, yarns, and artificial offerings. Spring steelhead typically prefer smaller presentations, especially in clear water conditions. I start small and only size up if necessary, which is the opposite of what most anglers do.

One exception: after a heavy rain when rivers are high and muddy, larger offerings with more scent can outperform smaller ones. But that’s the exception, not the rule. When in doubt, go smaller than you think necessary.

3. Ignoring Water Temperature (The Most Underrated Factor)

Water temperature is absolutely critical for spring steelhead success, yet many anglers fail to adjust their approach based on this factor. More than anything else – more than water level, clarity, weather, or moon phase – water temperature dictates where fish will be and how they’ll behave.

Here’s the breakdown I’ve worked out over years of obsessively recording water temps and success rates:

• Below 38°F: Fish slow and deep with minimal action, focus on walking-speed current and the deepest holes. Fish will be lethargic and unlikely to move far for bait.
• 38-42°F: Fish moderate depths with slightly more action, target transition areas. Fish become more willing to move short distances for bait but won’t chase aggressively.
• Above 42°F: Fish can be anywhere including riffles, more aggressive presentations work. This is when hardware fishing shines, and fish will move significant distances to strike.
• Above 50°F: Most fish are focused on spawning. Target pre- or post-spawn fish rather than active spawners on redds. Ethics matter here – leave spawning fish alone.

I carry a stream thermometer in my vest and check temperatures throughout the day. A 3-4 degree rise during a sunny afternoon can completely change fish behavior and location.

Last April, I started fishing at dawn on the Pere Marquette. Water was 39°F, and I caught two fish out of a deep, slow pool. By noon, bright sun had warmed the water to 44°F, and fish had moved up into the riffles above the pool. I adjusted and caught three more. My buddy Steve kept fishing the morning hole and blanked the rest of the day. When I shared this wisdom with him, he rolled his eyes. Some people just won’t listen.

Prime Spring Steelhead Spots on Michigan Rivers (Please Don’t Fish My Spots)

While I’m not going to give away my absolute favorite holes (sorry, but some secrets I’m taking to the grave), here are some productive general areas on Michigan’s premier steelhead rivers that consistently produce in spring. Just promise you won’t all show up on the same weekend, OK?

Pere Marquette River (My Home Water)

The PM between Walhalla and Custer holds excellent water for spring steelhead. Focus on the gravel transitions below the deeper holes, especially the stretches where you see a distinct change from deeper green water to shallow riffles. The section from Green Cottage Access to Bowman’s Bridge is particularly productive in April.

I’ve had exceptional success on the riverside gravel bar about a half mile downstream from Sulak campground. Look for a large cedar that’s fallen halfway across the river – the seam along the resulting current break holds fish consistently. Last spring I hooked seven fish in an hour there before a group of four anglers moved in right on top of me. Fishing etiquette seems to be a dying art.

There’s also a sweet inside bend about a quarter mile below the Gleason’s Landing access. Most people walk right past it heading for the more obvious holes downstream, but it consistently holds fish, especially on sunny days when they tuck against the shaded bank.

Manistee River (The Big Water Run)

Below Tippy Dam is the go-to section for most anglers, but it gets so crowded that I’ve literally seen fistfights break out over prime spots. No joke. Two guys in their 60s throwing down over who got to a run first. Embarrassing.

I prefer the stretches between High Bridge and CCC Bridge where there’s more room to spread out. The river’s bigger there, sure, but the fish are more spread out and less pressured.

The deep run along the north bank about 200 yards above the Rainbow Bend access can be fantastic in early April. It has the perfect combination of depth transitioning to spawning gravel. You need a longer casting rod to reach the prime seam from shore, or better yet, a boat to position perfectly.

Another overlooked spot is just downstream from the Bear Creek confluence. The slightly different water temperature and color often stalls fish there, and the bottom composition is perfect for spring staging fish.

Au Sable River (The Underrated Gem)

The Holy Waters section gets all the publicity for trout, but the lower river near Oscoda holds good numbers of spring steelhead. Focus on the deeper runs between the river mouth and Foote Dam.

I’ve found the gravel flats about a quarter mile below the Whirlpool access to be particularly productive when water temperatures hit that 42-45°F sweet spot. There’s a massive logjam on the south bank that creates a perfect current seam along its edge. Just be careful wading here – the bottom drops off suddenly in places.

A sleeper spot that few people fish properly is the first major bend upstream from the Oscoda boat launch. Most anglers fish it too shallow, but the real magic happens in 6-8 feet of water right where the main channel swings toward the north bank. You need to get your presentation deep quickly here, but when you do, the rewards can be spectacular.

Betsie River (Small But Mighty)

The Betsie is smaller and often overlooked, but it gets a solid spring run. The stretch from the Homestead Dam down to US-31 holds good numbers of fish, with the added bonus of being more wadeable than bigger systems.

There’s a fantastic run about a half mile upstream from the Kurick Road access – look for a sharp bend with a deep cut along the outside bank that leads into a gravel flat. This stretch consistently holds fish from mid-March through April.

A little-known access is at the end of Precision Road. It’s a bit of a hike in, but the effort keeps the crowds away, and the stretch of river it opens up has several prime gravel transitions that hold spring fish. Last year I had this entire section to myself for a full Saturday in April because most people don’t know about it or aren’t willing to walk the extra quarter mile. Their loss!

Spring Steelhead Fishing Etiquette (Don’t Be That Guy)

Few things ruin a day on the river faster than conflicts with other anglers. Spring can bring crowds to popular steelhead rivers, making proper etiquette essential. I’ve seen grown men nearly come to blows over fishing spots, and it’s just sad. We’re all out there to enjoy ourselves, not reenact Fight Club.

My worst experience happened on the Betsie a few years back. I’d hiked nearly a mile from the access to reach a prime run, got there at dawn, and caught a couple of nice fish. Around 8:30, a group of guys barged in, lined up shoulder to shoulder right across “my” run, and essentially forced me out. When I politely mentioned I was fishing there, one of them actually said, “Not anymore.” Charming. I still get irritated thinking about it.

Here are the unwritten rules I live by:

• Maintain proper spacing – If someone is working a run, find another spot or politely ask if you can join them with adequate spacing. A good rule of thumb: if you can reach the other angler with a full-length double haul cast, you’re too close.
• Fish the soft water – Don’t walk through prime holding water to reach your fishing spot. This seems obvious, but I see people doing it constantly, especially on the Manistee below Tippy Dam. They’ll tromp right through a prime run to get to “their spot,” spooking everything in their path.
• Take turns on prime water – If you’ve been fishing a productive run for an hour and landed a few fish, consider letting someone else have a shot. Karma is real in the fishing world. I once gave up a hot spot to an older gentleman who had been watching me catch fish, and a week later, he showed me his secret access point that I’d never have found otherwise.
• Keep a respectful volume – Loud talking and music disturbs both fish and other anglers. Last spring, a group of guys was fishing near me on the PM while blasting music from a portable speaker. I’m not a confrontational person, but I did ask them to turn it down. They actually did, which restored my faith in humanity a bit.
• Properly release fish you’re not keeping – Keep fish in the water when unhooking, minimize handling, and revive them before release. I’ve seen people drag steelhead up on the bank, take 5 minutes for a photo shoot, then toss them back like a piece of garbage. These fish are too precious for that treatment.

I’ve built great friendships on steelhead rivers by following these principles and often exchanging tips or even sharing successful baits with respectful anglers. There’s room for everyone if we all behave with a little consideration.

Oh, and one more thing – pack out what you pack in. Nothing makes me angrier than seeing discarded spawn bags, fishing line, or food wrappers along the river. I always carry a small trash bag and pick up whatever garbage I find. We’re guests in the fish’s home – let’s act like it.

The Steelhead Seasonal Calendar (When to Fish Where)

I keep detailed fishing logs – my wife makes fun of my little waterproof notebooks, but they’ve helped me identify patterns that have definitely put more fish in the net over the years. Looking back through years of spring entries, certain patterns emerge. The peak fishing window for spring steelhead is typically when water temperatures sustain 42-48°F for several days, regardless of the calendar date.

In Southern Michigan, this might happen in late March, while rivers in the northwest part of the state might not hit this range until late April. It’s all about latitude and how quickly waters warm.

Advanced Tactics: Reading Spring Water (The Real Secret to Success)

Once you’ve mastered the basics, success often comes down to reading water correctly. This skill took me years to develop, and I’m still learning nuances every season. Seriously – I’ve been at this for decades and still have “aha” moments about where fish hold in different conditions.

Spring steelhead utilize different water than fall or winter fish. As they prepare to spawn, they seek out specific habitat features:

1. Transition Areas (The Money Zones)

The most consistent spring spots are transitions from slower, deeper water to spawning gravel. Steelhead will stage at these transitions, especially during daylight hours or when conditions aren’t ideal for moving onto gravel.

On the Pere Marquette, there’s a beautiful transition about 200 yards below Gleason’s Landing where a deep run gradually shallows and widens over perfect pea-sized gravel. Almost every spring trip, I find fish stacked at the exact point where the water depth changes.

I once caught five steelhead in 45 minutes from a single transition zone on the Manistee. They were all holding in a space about the size of a dining room table, right where the deep green water started to shallow up over gravel. Cast after cast, fish after fish, all from the same precise spot. Meanwhile, anglers 50 yards away were getting nothing because they were fishing the obvious deep pool rather than the transition.

2. Current Seams (The Highways)

Look for the boundary areas between fast and slow water, especially those leading to spawning habitat. Steelhead use these seams as travel corridors and holding areas.

One of my most productive spots on the Manistee is where a small feeder creek creates a distinct seam in the main flow. The slightly cooler water from the creek and the perfect holding current consistently attracts spring fish. I’ve actually marked this spot in my GPS because it’s so reliable year after year.

A good trick for identifying prime seams: float a small stick or leaf down the river and watch where it travels. Often it will follow the exact path a migrating steelhead would take. I’ve discovered some killer spots using this method.

3. Inside Bends (The Overlooked Gold)

While conventional wisdom says to fish the outside (deeper) bends in rivers, spring steelhead often utilize inside bends where the current is moderate and there’s often suitable spawning gravel.

I discovered this by accident on the Betsie River when high water forced me to wade along an inside bend I’d normally ignore. To my surprise, I found multiple pairs of steelhead holding in 2-3 feet of water along the gradually sloping bank.

Since then, I’ve made it a point to check inside bends, especially when they have a moderate depth and smaller gravel. These spots get far less pressure because most anglers automatically head for the outside bends. Their mistake, my gain.

4. Tailouts (The Spawning Prep Zones)

The tailouts below deeper pools often have the perfect combination of flow, depth, and substrate for spring steelhead. These areas may get overlooked as anglers focus on the deeper water upstream. The long tailout below Sulak’s hole on the Pere Marquette consistently produces more spring fish for me than the famous deep hole everyone crowds into. There’s a specific depression on the right side of this tailout, maybe a foot deeper than the surrounding area, that always holds fish. I’ve probably caught over a hundred steelhead from that one little bucket over the years. One spring I was fishing a popular section of the Manistee where about 10 anglers were jammed into the prime deep pool with no one catching anything. Out of desperation, I moved down to the tailout below them where no one was fishing. Eight hookups in two hours. Sometimes zigging when everyone else zags pays off.

I keep detailed fishing logs, and looking back through years of spring entries, certain patterns emerge. The peak fishing window for spring steelhead is typically when water temperatures sustain 42-48°F for several days, regardless of the calendar date.

In Southern Michigan, this might happen in late March, while rivers in the northwest part of the state might not hit this range until late April.

Advanced Tactics: Reading Spring Water

Once you’ve mastered the basics, success often comes down to reading water correctly. This skill took me years to develop, and I’m still learning nuances every season.

Spring steelhead utilize different water than fall or winter fish. As they prepare to spawn, they seek out specific habitat features:

1. Transition Areas

The most consistent spring spots are transitions from slower, deeper water to spawning gravel. Steelhead will stage at these transitions, especially during daylight hours or when conditions aren’t ideal for moving onto gravel.

On the Pere Marquette, there’s a beautiful transition about 200 yards below Gleason’s Landing where a deep run gradually shallows and widens over perfect pea-sized gravel. Almost every spring trip, I find fish stacked at the exact point where the water depth changes.

2. Current Seams

Look for the boundary areas between fast and slow water, especially those leading to spawning habitat. Steelhead use these seams as travel corridors and holding areas.

One of my most productive spots on the Manistee is where a small feeder creek creates a distinct seam in the main flow. The slightly cooler water from the creek and the perfect holding current consistently attracts spring fish.

3. Inside Bends

While conventional wisdom says to fish the outside (deeper) bends in rivers, spring steelhead often utilize inside bends where the current is moderate and there’s often suitable spawning gravel.

I discovered this by accident on the Betsie River when high water forced me to wade along an inside bend I’d normally ignore. To my surprise, I found multiple pairs of steelhead holding in 2-3 feet of water along the gradually sloping bank.

4. Tailouts

The tailouts below deeper pools often have the perfect combination of flow, depth, and substrate for spring steelhead. These areas may get overlooked as anglers focus on the deeper water upstream.

The long tailout below Sulak’s hole on the Pere Marquette consistently produces more spring fish for me than the famous deep water everyone crowds into.

Weather Factors That Impact Spring Success (Why I Check My Phone 100 Times Before a Trip)

Weather patterns dramatically affect spring steelhead fishing, sometimes making the difference between epic days and complete shutouts. I obsessively check weather apps before and during trips – drives my wife crazy when we’re supposed to be having dinner but I’m analyzing barometric pressure trends.

Rising Barometric Pressure (The Post-Storm Magic)

I’ve noticed a clear pattern over the years – some of my best spring steelhead fishing happens the day after a weather front moves through when the barometer is rising. Fish seem more aggressive and willing to strike during these periods.

Last April, I fished three consecutive days on the Manistee. Day one was during falling pressure before a storm – caught one fish in 8 hours and considered driving home. Day two was stormy with steady rain – got skunked completely and questioned my life choices while eating a soggy sandwich in my truck. Day three was clear with rising pressure after the storm moved through – landed seven nice steelhead before lunch.

The worst conditions? High, stable pressure that lingers for days. That bluebird sky that makes for pretty pictures but tough fishing. I’ve had days where I couldn’t buy a bite under those conditions.

Water Clarity Changes (The Goldilocks Zone)

Spring brings rain, snowmelt, and fluctuating water conditions. I’ve found the “clearing phase” after a high water event to be particularly productive. As visibility improves from 3-4 inches to 1-2 feet, steelhead often go on a feeding binge.

I keep close watch on the Michigan stream flow data during spring. When I see a river dropping and clearing after a spike, I’ll rearrange my schedule to get on that water. I’ve called in “sick” to work more than once when the gauges showed perfect clearing conditions. Sorry, boss.

The sweet spot for spring steelhead seems to be about 12-24 inches of visibility – what old-timers call “green” or “steelhead green.” Too clear and the fish get spooky; too muddy and they can’t find your bait unless it hits them on the nose.

Light Conditions (The Early Bird Factor)

Bright, sunny days can make spring steelhead ultra-spooky in clear water. I’ve had much better success on overcast days or during the first and last hours of daylight when the sun angle is low.

If you’re stuck fishing midday in clear conditions, focus on water that’s slightly stained or sections with overhead cover like logjams or overhanging trees. The deep run under the cedar sweeper about a quarter mile below Rainbow Rapids on the Pere Marquette has saved many a sunny day for me. I call it the “Noon Hole” because it’s the only place I can consistently hook fish at lunchtime on clear days.

I’ve also noticed that a light rain often improves fishing, especially if it’s warm. Not only does it break up the surface glare and provide some cover, but it seems to trigger fish movement. Some of my best days have been in a gentle drizzle – though it’s a fine line before heavier rain muddies the water and shuts things down.

The absolute worst? Strong east winds. I don’t know why – maybe it’s just superstition – but I’ve had terrible luck fishing steelhead during easterly winds. Maybe there’s a barometric connection, maybe it’s all in my head, but my log books don’t lie. When the wind’s from the east, fishing’s the least.

Spring Steelhead Conservation Practices (Because We Want Fish for Our Kids Too)

With increasing pressure on our steelhead populations, conservation has become more important than ever. I’ve changed several of my practices over the years to help protect these amazing fish. Truth is, our steelhead runs aren’t what they were 20 years ago, and if we don’t take care of what we have, the future looks bleak.

Proper Catch & Release (If You’re Letting ‘Em Go)

If you’re releasing steelhead (which I do for most wild fish), proper handling is crucial:

• Use barbless hooks or crimp your barbs – takes about 2 seconds and makes a huge difference in fish survival
• Keep the fish in the water as much as possible – they can’t breathe air, people!
• Support larger fish horizontally rather than vertically – prevents internal damage
• Revive the fish thoroughly before release – if they swim away weakly, they’re probably goners
• Avoid fishing when water temperatures exceed 65°F – mortality skyrockets above this threshold

I carry a small pair of lightweight fishing forceps that make hook removal quick and efficient while keeping the fish in the water. Best $12 I ever spent on fishing gear.

I once watched in horror as an angler held a beautiful wild hen out of water for nearly 5 minutes while his buddy fumbled with a camera. The fish was belly-up within seconds after release. Education is key here – some folks just don’t know better, but that doesn’t make it less harmful.

Spawning Fish Considerations (The Ethics Question)

During peak spawn, I avoid targeting actively spawning fish on redds. These fish are vulnerable and crucial for natural reproduction. Instead, I focus on fresh-run fish in holding water or post-spawn “dropbacks” that are beginning to return to the lake.

This is honestly a controversial topic in the steelhead community. Many anglers target spawning fish because, well, they’re easy to catch. I’ve had heated discussions with fishing buddies about this. My take: just because you can catch a fish doesn’t mean you should.

If you do find yourself catching fish with loose eggs or milt, consider cutting your line near the hook rather than stressing the fish with handling if the hook is deep. Circle hooks can reduce deep hookings significantly – I switched to them years ago for bait fishing and will never go back.

Selective Harvest (Making Smart Choices)

I practice selective harvest, keeping only hatchery fish (identifiable by their clipped adipose fin) and releasing wild fish with their adipose fin intact. This helps preserve the genetic diversity and natural reproduction in our rivers.

The adipose fin is that small, fleshy fin on the back between the dorsal fin and tail. Hatchery fish have it removed before release, making them easy to identify. It’s our way of protecting the genetic heritage of natural reproduction.

The hatchery steelhead I do harvest provide eggs for curing (and delicious eating). I’ve found that brining steelhead fillets in a simple solution of salt, brown sugar, and soy sauce for 8 hours before smoking creates absolutely fantastic table fare. My neighbor Bob constantly “happens to drop by” when the smoker’s going. Subtle, Bob. Real subtle.

One spring, I released a massive wild hen that I estimate was close to 18 pounds – one of the largest I’ve ever caught. As I watched her swim away, I thought about how many eggs she carried and how valuable she was to the future of the fishery. That gave me more satisfaction than if I’d kept her.

Single Hooks vs. Trebles (An Easy Switch)

This is a simple change that makes a big difference. Replacing treble hooks with single hooks on your lures significantly reduces fish mortality and makes release much easier. The hookup rate is nearly identical, but the damage to the fish is much less.

I’ve retrofit all my spinners and spoons with single hooks. Takes about 30 seconds per lure and costs next to nothing. If you’re not comfortable doing this yourself, most bait shops will do it for you.

Redd Protection (Watch Your Wading)

During spring spawning, be careful where you wade. Steelhead eggs incubating in the gravel are extremely vulnerable to being crushed underfoot. Those clean gravel patches where fish spawn should be avoided when wading.

I’ve seen anglers walk right through active spawning beds without a second thought. Sometimes it’s ignorance, sometimes it’s carelessness, but the damage is the same. Walk around redds, not through them.

I once watched a group of five anglers wade right through the middle of a prime spawning riffle on the Pere Marquette, likely crushing thousands of eggs in the process. When I pointed it out, they seemed genuinely surprised – they simply didn’t know. Education matters.

Spring Steelhead Fishing FAQs (The Stuff People Ask Me All The Time)

After writing dozens of articles and talking to thousands of anglers over the years, I’ve noticed certain questions come up again and again. Here are the answers to the most common ones:

Final Thoughts on Spring Steelhead Fishing (Why We Put Up With the Madness)

Spring steelhead fishing combines technical challenge, physical demand, and the opportunity for trophy-class fish – a combination that’s hard to beat in the freshwater world. After decades of chasing these magnificent fish, each spring still brings the same anticipation and excitement as my first season.

I’ve gone from focusing solely on catching numbers to appreciating the entire experience – the mist rising off the river at dawn, the first kingfisher rattling past, the satisfaction of reading water correctly and being rewarded with a bent rod.

Last April, I had one of those perfect spring mornings on the Pere Marquette. I arrived at my favorite access point before sunrise, hiked in a half mile, and set up on a run I’ve fished hundreds of times. The world was just waking up – birds starting to sing, steam rising from the water, that hushed feeling before the day fully begins.

On my third cast, the float disappeared, and the fight was on. A magnificent wild hen, chrome bright and about 12 pounds, cartwheeled across the river before I could get her to the net. After a quick photo and careful release, I sat on the bank drinking coffee from my thermos, watching that fish hold in the current recovering her strength before finning back to deeper water.

In that moment, I couldn’t have cared less if I caught another fish all day. It was perfect. That’s what keeps me coming back season after season.

If you’re new to steelhead fishing, be patient with yourself. There’s a substantial learning curve, but the rewards are worth it. Start with the fundamentals: proper drift presentation, understanding river hydrology, and finding those transition zones where fish hold. Don’t get discouraged by the inevitable skunkings – they happen to all of us, even after years on the water.

Focus on the experience rather than the numbers. Some of my most memorable days on the river resulted in just one or two fish – but they were special fish, caught in beautiful places, often shared with good friends or family.

Take care of the resource too. These amazing fish face plenty of challenges – habitat degradation, climate change, invasive species, predators. The least we can do as anglers is handle them with respect and release them carefully when appropriate.

The spring steelhead run represents one of Michigan’s greatest angling treasures. By approaching these fish with respect – both for their fighting ability and their conservation needs – we can ensure that future generations will experience the same thrill of watching a float disappear and feeling that unmistakable head-shake of a chrome bullet on the other end of the line.

I still remember taking my son Tommy out for his first steelhead when he was nine. The wonder in his eyes when he saw his first chrome missile launch into the air is something I’ll never forget. More than any fish I’ve caught myself, watching him release that fish and talk about it non-stop for weeks afterward gave me hope for the future of our sport.

Nothing compares to the satisfaction of releasing a bright spring steelhead back into the current, watching it hold in your hands for a moment before darting back to the depths with a flick of its powerful tail. That’s the moment that keeps me coming back year after year, river after river, no matter the conditions.